How to Use Keiki Paste on Orchids (Step-by-Step With Pictures)
If you want to know how to use keiki paste on orchids the right way, you're in the right place. Keiki paste is one of the most reliable ways to get a genetically identical baby orchid from your existing plant — but only if you apply it to the right node, in the right amount, at the right time. Get any one of those wrong and you may wait months for nothing. This guide walks through the entire process, from choosing a node to separating your keiki.
What You Need Before You Start
Before applying keiki paste to your orchid, gather everything you'll need. Having it all ready prevents you from rushing the application step, which is where most mistakes happen.
Required:
- Keiki cloning paste (cytokinin-based, not rooting hormone)
- A toothpick or small applicator (many pastes include these)
- 70% isopropyl alcohol for sterilizing tools
- A healthy orchid with a flower spike — a spent spike (after blooming) works best
- Good lighting so you can clearly see the nodes
Optional but helpful:
- A magnifying glass or phone camera zoom for identifying nodes
- Small tweezers to peel back the papery bract covering a node
- Humidity dome or clear plastic bag for encouraging growth
The most important material is the paste itself. Make sure you're using a true keiki paste (cytokinin/BAP-based), not a rooting hormone. They are completely different products that do completely different things. If your paste is for "cuttings," it won't work for this application.
How to Identify the Right Node on an Orchid Spike
This is where most beginners go wrong. Applying keiki paste to the wrong location on the spike guarantees failure.
A flower spike on a Phalaenopsis orchid has multiple nodes spaced along its length. Each node is a small bump, typically covered by a dry, scale-like brown sheath (called a bract). The nodes are usually spaced 2–4 inches apart.
The best nodes for keiki production:
- Nodes in the middle or upper third of the spike
- Nodes that have not already flowered from (or choose one with the bloom still attached and wait until it drops)
- Nodes on a spent spike — this is actually ideal. After the flowers drop, the spike remains viable for months and nodes along it are primed for keiki production
Nodes to avoid:
- The very tip of the spike — this usually produces more blooms, not keikis (unless the tip has been cut)
- Damaged or shriveled nodes
- Nodes on a spike that is yellowing or dying
Once you've identified a good node, use tweezers or a fingernail to gently peel back the papery bract covering it. You'll see a small, slightly shiny bud underneath. That's where the paste goes.
Step-by-Step: How to Apply Keiki Paste on Orchids
Step 1: Sterilize your applicator
Wipe your toothpick or applicator with 70% isopropyl alcohol and let it dry for 30 seconds. You're creating a small wound in plant tissue — cleanliness matters to prevent fungal or bacterial issues.
Step 2: Load the paste
Dip the applicator tip into the keiki paste and pick up a small amount — roughly the size of a grain of rice or a little smaller. Less is more here. Too much paste can cause excessive hormone concentration that actually inhibits growth.
Step 3: Apply directly to the node
Press the paste gently onto the exposed bud at the node. You want full coverage of the bud surface but you don't need to bury it in paste. A thin, even coat over the bud is ideal. Avoid getting paste on the spike itself between nodes — it won't do anything there.
Step 4: Leave it alone
Do not touch, wipe, or water over the application. Return your orchid to its normal spot with bright indirect light and normal humidity. Resist the urge to check under the paste every few days — the temptation is real, but disturbing the node will interrupt the process.
Step 5: Wait and watch
Within 2–4 weeks you should see the bud begin to swell. By weeks 4–8, you'll see small leaves emerging. This is your keiki. It will look like a miniature orchid, which is exactly what it is — a genetically identical copy of the mother plant.
What to Expect Over the Following Months
Weeks 2–4: The node swells and shows green. If nothing happens by week 5, the application may not have taken. You can try applying to a different node.
Weeks 4–8: Small leaves emerge. The keiki is now clearly visible. Keep caring for the mother plant normally — the keiki feeds off the mother's resources.
Months 2–4: The keiki continues growing. Small aerial roots will begin to appear from its base. This is the signal you're waiting for.
When to separate: Wait until the keiki has at least 2–3 roots that are each 1–2 inches long. Separating too early is the most common mistake — a keiki without substantial roots has very little chance of surviving on its own. Patience here pays off.
How to Separate and Pot the Keiki
Once roots are 1–2 inches long and you have at least 2–3 of them, it's time to pot your keiki.
- Use a sterile blade or scissors to cut the spike, leaving 1 inch of spike on either side of the keiki base
- Fill a small pot (2–3 inch pot is usually right) with orchid bark or a bark/perlite mix
- Nestle the keiki roots gently into the medium — don't bury the base or crown
- Water lightly and place in bright indirect light with high humidity (70%+ if possible)
- Don't fertilize for the first 4–6 weeks to avoid burning the young roots
Your keiki will look sad for a week or two after separation — this is normal transplant shock. Keep humidity up and resist overwatering. Most healthy keikis bounce back and begin putting out new growth within 4–8 weeks of being potted.
Common Problems and How to Fix Them
Nothing happened after 4–6 weeks:
The node may have been dormant, damaged, or the paste concentration insufficient. Try a different node on the same spike, or try a different spike. Make sure you're using actual keiki paste (cytokinin), not a rooting product.
The keiki grows leaves but no roots after months:
This is the most frustrating scenario. Keep waiting — roots often lag far behind leaf growth on keikis. Increase humidity around the mother plant. Some growers wrap a small wad of damp sphagnum moss around the keiki base to encourage root development. Don't separate until roots appear.
Mold or rot at the application site:
This usually means too much paste was applied or the tools weren't sterile. Remove the paste with a cotton swab, let the area dry, and try again on a different node with sterilized tools and a smaller amount.
The keiki died after separation:
Separated too early is the most common cause. In the future, wait for roots that are 1–2 inches long. You can also try applying keiki paste again to another node and waiting longer this time.
What We Recommend
For reliable keiki production on Phalaenopsis orchids and other houseplants, the paste quality directly affects your results. Berkland Keiki Cloning Paste is formulated at the right cytokinin concentration to produce keikis consistently — and unlike many products, it's designed to work on both orchids and a wide range of tropical houseplants.
Berkland Keiki Cloning Paste — 2X the paste, applicators included, made in the USA
- Consistent cytokinin (BAP) concentration for reliable node stimulation
- Works on Phalaenopsis orchids, pothos, philodendron, monstera, hoya, and more
- Includes applicator tools — no separate toothpick hunting required
- 2X more product than Southside Plants, the top-selling competitor
- 4.4 stars, 878+ verified reviews
Frequently Asked Questions
How much keiki paste do I apply to an orchid node?
A very small amount — roughly the size of a grain of rice, sometimes less. Apply just enough to fully coat the exposed bud surface at the node. Too much paste can cause hormonal imbalance that inhibits rather than encourages growth. When in doubt, use less and apply to an additional node rather than piling on more to one spot.
Can I apply keiki paste to a blooming orchid?
Yes, but it's generally better to wait until the blooms have dropped. Applying paste to a node on a spike that still has flowers redirects energy that's currently going to bloom maintenance. A spent spike — one that has finished blooming but is still green — is ideal. The plant's energy is available to direct toward keiki development.
Why does my orchid keep making flower buds instead of keikis?
This is a common frustration. Nodes at the tip of an intact spike are more likely to produce flower buds than keikis — that's their natural tendency. For keiki production, apply paste to a middle node on a spent spike (after flowers have dropped). Cutting the spike tip also redirects energy away from reblooming and toward keiki production.
How do I know when the keiki is ready to separate?
Wait until the keiki has at least 2–3 roots and each root is at least 1–2 inches long. The keiki should look like a fully formed miniature orchid with its own visible leaves. If the roots are still tiny or absent, keep waiting — separating too early is the single most common cause of keiki failure.
Can I use keiki paste more than once on the same orchid?
Yes. You can apply keiki paste to multiple nodes on the same plant at the same time, or apply to a new node after a previous attempt didn't take. Most orchids can support 1–2 keikis at a time without serious stress to the mother plant, as long as normal watering and feeding continue.
You might also like:
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Related reading:
- Keiki Paste vs Rooting Hormone: Which Is Better for Plant Propagation?
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Shop this product: Berkland Keiki Cloning Paste on Berkland Goods
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